Testaccio is the name of the twentieth district of Rome. The name comes from the so-called "mount" (Mons Testaceus): 35 meters of fragments of pottery (testae, in Latin), and various debris, accumulated over the centuries as remainders of the transport heading to the port of Ripa Grande (Emporium).
The Emporio port worked since Roman times, and was the landing point of goods and raw materials (primarily marble, grain, wine) that arrived by sea from the port of Ostia, went up the river on barges hauled in by buffaloes which in 1842 were replaced by steam trailers.

Over the centuries, the shards of amphorae, which were used to contain wheat and liquid foods during transport, accumulated in a hill, hence the name - ancient - of Monte Testaccio or Shards Mount (“Monte dei cocci”), and the choice - modern - of the amphora as a symbol of the district. The number of stacked jars is estimated at around 25 million. The empty jars that had contained mostly oil were broken into pieces and arranged neatly to provide stability in a stepped pyramid and sprinkled with lime to prevent odors due to decomposition of organic residues. The marbles, which gave the name to the street Marmorata that connects the port of Ripa with Porta San Paolo, were the ones the Romans continued to import from all over the Mediterranean sea till the end of the empire, and that with the decay of Rome remained unused in large quantities, “res nullius”, for centuries as open quarry of semi-finished products of value.

Until the restoration and urban redevelopment begun after 1870, which assigned this area and along the Ostiense down to the basilica of St. Paul to industrial activities and "heavy" services (railways, slaughterhouse, general markets, gas factory moved here from Circus Maximus), the area, despite being located inside the city walls, was populated by poor farmers and shepherds, subject to floods of the Tiber and infested by malaria, which was beginning at the gates of Rome.

The apartment is located at the northern end of Via Marmorata, between the Tiber and Via Marmorata a main thoroughfare running between the Aventine Hill and the network of streets that are the heart of the Testaccio district. This location is superb giving easy access to central and historic Rome by foot, bus and metro. Also Ostiense mainline station is nearby so for getting around it is unbeatable. However its real joy is to be based in this traditional, working class area so that you feel like you are taking part in the life of the city.

Via Marmorata itself is very busy but the area behind which is the heart of Testaccio is a much more local place, where people carry out the business of their lives independently from the tourist and city hustle and bustle. There is a massive range of shops, supermarkets, bars and trattorias to cater for all your needs. At its heart is the new market which has a fantastic array of food, drink, household items and it is also famous for its shoes. As with everything in Testaccio the emphasis is on locally produced goods and supplies.

A few highlights (amongst many):

At the southern end of Testaccio near the market, visit the Monte Testaccio, a hill now fully grown over but comprising pieces of around 64 million broken olive oil jars brought into the city over the past 2,000 years. Its not open to the public generally but still well worth seeing. (visits are available on request)

Take a wonderful walk up the Aventine hill (turn left from Via Marmorata at the junction before the Post Office - itself an architectural gem) past the smart houses and apartments to the top where you can enjoy fantastic views of Rome, including the famous "Through the keyhole" view of St Peter's. You can continue on until you descend to the Circus Maximus.

Beyond the market is the site of the disused slaughterhouse that still dictates much of the local diet and fare. It is now a designated area of urban space for young people and houses the School of Popular Music.

Visit the famous Volpetti's delicatessen just a short walk from the Casa (in Via Marmorata) with its fantastic range of foodstuffs and its wonderful smells. The staff are great and will help you with your choices. Homemade delights such as Arancini, Supplì, Filetto di Baccalà are highly recommended.

On Sunday the famous Porta Portese market is only a few minutes stroll away with its massive stock of clothes, shoes, handbags, bric-a-brac, car parts, bikes and everything else you can think of.

If you are fortunate enough to be in town when the local team is at home, bus 280 from outside the apartment will drop you at the Stadio Olimpico. By the way, there is only one team in Rome as far as the Testaccio district is concerned. – ROMA team and not LAZIO team !

There are many local places to eat and the food is authentically Roman.

The area around Monte Testaccio is a hub for nightlife with many pubs, bars and clubs as well as nice restaurants nestling into the hill. There is also a busy cinema, The Greenwich and the Teatro Vittoria in the heart of Testaccio.

When you need to kick-start your day with coffee and a pastry, you can begin in the best pastry of the area LINARI in Via Zabaglia in front of the church (a bit in the left).

Casa Testaccio is a delightful base for a different kind of Roman holiday offering a chance to see beneath the crowded touristy areas (whilst having all that nearby if you want it) and allowing you to feel part of the local life of the city.